8 iconic wildlife reserves in India where the tiger is not the star attraction

Hemis, the largest national park in India, is characterised by its high-altitude cold desert environment. But while there are snow leopards to be found here, they’re elusive buggers, and not much more than the mountainous landscape will greet you on your trek: wide plateaus, alpine meadows, blue sheep cantering away from you with their spiral horns held sideways lumbering around like a bored mid-90s computer game character. Conservation here is connected to local communities.